Tag Archives: twain

Share a Drink with the Ghost of Twain

If you happen to find yourself roaming around downtown Lafayette after  hours, you might find the Knickerbocker Saloon calling your name.  Quaint, simple, exactly what you would expect from a place that claims to be “Indiana’s oldest bar“.  Originally built in 1835, then called the “Cherry Wood Bar”, it was constructed as part of a hotel.  In 1874, the bar adopted the name “The Knickerbocker Saloon”, introducing the automatic player piano as entertainment, and the rest was history.

More times than not, the Knickerbocker goes overlooked by the unknowing passerby, as there are now many newer, updated places that young adults can go downtown to spend their free time.  However, the Knickerbocker gives you an atmosphere that’s difficult to find elsewhere.  Upon entering, the first thing probably noticed are the candles spread evenly around the room, giving a dim glow to each table.  It’s never very loud (unless there’s a concert going on that night) and faint conversations restricted to each table slip quietly through the smoky air.

It really is a simple place, homey, exactly what you’d expect from any bar that has seen so many years, but as one dives deeper into the bar’s history, they’ll find that there’s a lot more to  this classic watering hole than meets the eye.

First, there’s the impressive guest list.  Wherever you end up sitting, you’re likely to be in the general vicinity of where President Grant, Al Capone, or Mark Twain had a drink, all three of which the bar claims to have hosted at various times.  Even more modern Purdue celebrities like Drew Brees and Neil Armstrong have been said to have graced the bar with their presence.

It should also be noted that there have been many masks the bar has worn throughout the years.  Originally it was a hotel bar.  However, with the name change in 1874, it expanded its business model to include haircuts and shaves for its patrons (in addition to the drinks).  This lasted until the prohibition when the shift in alcohol laws hurt sales, it was briefly closed until laws once again changed allowing it to reopen for business.  For almost 40 years, the bar was back in full swing until a fire struck in the 1960s forcing it to be shut down once again.  After being renovated, it operated as a clock shop several years during the 1970s before once again becoming the fully functioning bar it is today.

Another interesting tidbit is that there is an ongoing debate regarding the claim that the Knickerbocker Saloon really is Indiana’s oldest bar.  There’s another bar in Indianapolis called the “Slippery Noodle” which makes the same claim.  The Knickerbocker has technically held its liquor license longer, obtaining it in 1835, compared to 1850 for the Slippery Noodle.  However, the Slippery Noodle has stayed open through the years, even as a speakeasy during the prohibition.  It’s up to the individual to decide whether its the initial opening date or staying open consistently that matters the most.

However, for me, one claim trumps them all.  A rumor spread by word of mouth throughout the years, relying only on the gossipy nature of bar goers to survive.  This is the claim that the Knickerbocker is home to the only known suicide committed by the use of a guillotine.  As the story goes, the basement of the Knickerbocker used to be part of the The Lahr (the hotel originally associated with the bar).  One fateful night, an unhappy employee found the horrific bladed device in the basement and used it to behead themself, casting a darker shadow on the property for years to come.

The Knickerbocker may not be the flashiest venue around.  It may not have the cheapest drinks.  Only a few hours there will leave the stale scent of smoke on clothes for days to come.  But more importantly, the Knickerbocker is an important piece of Lafayette history, able to outlast many challenges and changes throughout the years, existing as a thriving downtown staple today, and hopefully for many years to come.